Samos: The Hidden Gem of the Greek Islands

I had never heard of Samos before I went. No friend had raved about it, no photo had ever stopped my scroll. So I arrived without expectations, and I let the island surprise me completely.

It did. Samos is one of those Greek islands that doesn't make the usual lists, and that is exactly its charm. It is green, it is friendly and it is wonderfully calm. Being less known takes nothing away from the experience. If anything, it adds to it.

Green, friendly and calm

Samos lies in the eastern Aegean, close to the Turkish coast. Forget the whitewashed Cyclades you picture when you think of Greece. Samos is green. Pine forests roll down to the sea, mountains rise behind the villages and vineyards climb the hillsides in terraces. It is one of the greenest islands in Greece, and after a few days you stop being surprised by it.

And then there's the people. Everywhere we went we were welcomed like guests rather than tourists. And there is a calm to the island that is hard to find in the more famous spots. No big crowds, no rush, just the typical Mediterranean hospitality that we know and love.

Samos also has more history than its size suggests. It is the birthplace of Pythagoras, and the harbour town of Pythagorio is named after him. Together with the ancient Heraion, the sanctuary of the goddess Hera, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

A wine tasting you won't regret

Samos has been making wine since ancient times, and it is still famous for its sweet Muscat. But the island has more to offer than dessert wine, and the best place to discover that is Hatziioannou Estate.

This family-run estate sits in the green hills near Mytilinioi and works exclusively with organic wine. It was founded by Georgios Hatziioannou and his sons Themistoklis and Evangelos, who continue a winemaking tradition that goes back generations. They focus on the island's own Muscat grape, in dry whites as well as naturally sweet wines, and their bottles have won awards.

We walked between the vines, learned about the land, the grapes and the flavours, and then tasted the result. The wines really do taste like the island itself. Visits are by appointment, so book ahead.

Beaches: quiet, gorgeous and crystal blue

Samos has gorgeous beaches scattered all around the island. We visited a few, and these two became our favourites.

Livadaki is a small sandy cove about 30 minutes north of Samos town, tucked between rocks with shallow, turquoise water. It has a relaxed beach bar, sunbeds and swings looking out over the sea. The last stretch of road is unpaved and parking is limited, so go early. I promise you it is worth every bump.

Sunrise Beach is a small, sheltered beach just outside Kokkari, a short walk from the end of the village. The water stays calm even when the wind picks up, and you have a lovely view back towards Kokkari.

Fresh food, good coffee and a hidden cocktail and art bar

There are so many great food spots on Samos that it is hard to make a shortlist. Fresh seafood, local produce and a glass of island wine by the water: it is difficult to eat badly here. These are the places I would go back to tomorrow.

• Aurora, Kokkari: we loved it so much we went back twice.
• Gehen wir zu Anna: come for the food, stay for the sensational views.
• P2 Cafe: the best coffee on the island.
• Iera Odos, Pythagorio: a hidden art and cocktail bar in an old stone building, with a balcony over the street and a garden at the back. The perfect place for a drink before dinner, or instead of it.

Shopping: local produce and craftsmanship is everywhere

One of the nicest things about Samos is how local everything feels. Both Pythagorio and Kokkari are lovely for browsing clothes and accessories in little shops along the old streets.

For food, go to Antigoni's Deli Concept. It is a lovely small place for authentic Greek products, and you can taste them on the spot before you decide what to take home.

A glass of orange juice straight from the tree

While you are on Samos, pay a visit to Konstantinos Skaliaris. The owner will squeeze you a fresh glass of orange juice from his own trees, and while you drink it you can browse his shop full of homemade goods: oils, honey, creams and more. It is simple, generous and exactly what I love about this island.

Good to know before you go

• Where to stay: Kokkari and Pythagorio are the liveliest bases. Kokkari is great for beaches and evenings by the water, Pythagorio for history and a pretty harbour.
• Getting around: rent a car. The best beaches, wineries and villages are spread across the island, and some roads are narrow or partly unpaved.
• Book ahead: activities like wine tastings at Hatziioannou Estate are by appointment only.

Above all, enjoy your time there and hopefully this hidden gem in the Mediterranean sea surprises you like it did for me.